Persian Libas/Underwear
Also known as short trousers
by THL Ghadah Falak Noor bint Safi 'Abdu'llah
Libas: (lee-bās) Underwear, generally men are depicted wearing short trousers, libas or "underwear". This early version of men's boxers is usually viewed in Persian miniatures generally as a white garment, such as in the miniature, Building of the castle of Khwarnag 1494-95. Another Persian miniature, found in the Russian book Среанеазиатские миниатюрьі XVI-XVIII вв, встүпитеΛвная Н. В. Дьякоңовой Под редақцией Λ. Т. Тюзадьяна здатеΛьсТьо НАУКА москва 1964, Plate 32 of this book is often referred to as the Clothesline miniature due to several pieces of clothing hanging to dry including a pair of white "short trousers".
Written accounts indicate length and how loose or "fitted" this garment may have been. Michele Membre' has this to say in the sixteenth century:
"Their clothes are not narrow like those of the Ottomans, but wide, as if they are wearing Paigiami." (Membre'pg 27)
In the book A Survey of Persian Art from Prehistoric times to the Present, Vol. V, Pope gives a summary of the written accounts of Tavernier's description of the taste of Shah Süleyman, where there is an indication of the length of the short trousers.
"the Kings only garments were simple red and white checked taffeta trousers which came down to the middle of his leg …." (Pope, after, Tavernier, pg 2251)
The two pair of extent Libas located in The Metropolitan Museum of Art from the Caucasus region 8-10th Centuries, had the height measurement of the garment as well as the fibre content for each garment.
"A portion of a pair of Short Trousers is made of nettle like fibres, H. 52 cm… A pair of short trousers made of linen and hemp blend, H. 58 cm"(Kajintaipg 90).
An experiment using the height measurements of the extent garments on my own body, concludes the length of this garment is near the knees.
Later period extents such as the 16th century, knee-long pants çakşur made of Crepe (Bürümcük) 16th Century, Topkapi Palace Museum, appear to have more of a tapered fit at the knee.
(http://www.geocities.com/anahita_whitehorse/ottofemcloth.html)
Developing this pattern: Inspired by the look from miniatures and seeking a correct fit as well as comfort for the wearer. The pattern reflects a "loose" knee rather than "tapered" knee style underwear.
. ***Libas/Underwear Pattern and drawings created by Ghadah Falak Noor (Ashby McKenney).
Pattern Pieces:
Cut two of the leg pieces. Measurement's are to be cut along the fold.
Square gore cut one.
Measurement 1:
For Men:
1) Measure waist _____________ add 2 inches % 2 =_________inches
2) Add preferred seam allowance to measurement _________
For Women:
1) Measure largest part of the hips. _________ Add 2 inches % 2 _______ inches
2) Add preferred seam allowance to measurement _________
For larger sizes (if needed for extra comfort)
1) Take initial measurements and add 2" = __________ inches
2) Add Preferred Seam allowance =______________
Measurement 2: (Long side)
1) Measure from waist to mid thigh, knee or calf area. =_____________ Inches
2) Add preferred seam allowance to measurement _________inches (B)
Square Gore:
Measurement 1:
1) Take the bellybutton to crutch area measurement = _____________ inches (A)
This measurement will be from the center of the square to the corners when you fold the square into a triangle.
Measurement 2:
1) Take measurement A _______ + 6 inches = _________ inches (B)
2) Measurement B ___________ gives you the length of all 4 sides of the square.
3) DO NOT Forget to add Preferred Seam allowance to B this will give you your overall measurement for each side of the square
**NOTE**
The measurements and formula are not "set in stone". These drawings are not to scale. This was done so the pattern may be adjusted for different sizes, and still be workable, rather than noting period measurements which are often quite small.
LIBAS ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
| Step 1: | Step 2: |
Open leg pieces, sew long leg side to top gore side, repeat with other leg. Should similar to the picture below  |
Fold the leg and gore pieces in half. Sew the remaining sides of the gore to the remaining side leg as shown.  |
| Step 3: | |
Add casing, drawstring and hem legs. Undergarment is ready to wear.  | |
***Libas/Underwear Pattern and drawings created by Ghadah Falak Noor (Ashby McKenney).
Finished pair of Libas modeled:
 Libas: front view |  Square gore, "Inseam" |
 Side view |  Back view |
Bibliography:
Kajintai, Kobuko, "A Man's Caftan and Leggings from the North Caucasus of the Eight to Tenth Century: A Conservator's report." Metropolitan Museum Journal Vol. 36 (2001): pp 85-124 JSTOR Web 15/5/2008 pg. 90
Knauer, Elfriede R."A Man's Caftan and Leggings from the North Caucasus of the Eight to Tenth Century: A Genealogical study." Metropolitan Museum Journal Vol. 36 (2001): pp 125-154 JSTOR Web 15/5/2008 pg.144
Chardin, Sir John, Sir John Chardin Travels in Persia 1673-1677, Dover Publications, 1988 pg 212
Среанеазиатские миниатюрьі XVI-XVIII вв, встүпитеΛвная Н. В. Дьякоңовой Под редақцией Λ. Т. Тюзадьяна ИздатеΛьсТьо НАУКА москва 1964, (This entire book is in Russian, including descriptions, plate 32.)
Grabar, Oleg, Mostly Miniatures: An Introduction to Persian Painting, Princeton University Press, 2000 pg. 65
Membré, Michele. Mission to the Lord Sophy of Persia (1539-1542) Trustees of the Gibb Memorial, 1999 pg 27
Pope, Arthur Uphram, ed Phyllis Ackerman Asst. ed. A Survey of Persian Art from Prehistoric times to the Present, Vol. V. Oxford University Press 1967 pgs. 2251-53
Websites:
http://www.geocities.com/anahita_whitehorse/ottofemcloth.html
http://www.willofyre.com/articles.html
Special thank you:
Seamus Kendrick (Jamie McKenney) The Model
Urtatim al-Qurtubiyya bint 'abd al-Karim al-hakam al-Fassi (Ellen Perlman) providing picture of knee long pants.
Pictures taken By Ghadah Falak Noor (Ashby McKenney) Do not use without my expressed permission.