The Modified Daisy Chain Stitch

by Lady Satine De La Courcel

Beads have been a part of man's history almost since the beginning. Man, in the early days, took shells, nuts, rocks, bones, and sticks, and figured a way of adorning them, possibly with a long piece of grass or seaweed.

In addition to the above mentioned early forms of beaded adornment, we also find beads used prior to 1600 AD were also made of amber, pearl, jade, gold, bone, shell, carnelian, turquoise, silver, bronze, pearls, glass and many more. There are many examples of modified daisy chain jewelry and adornment in medieval and renaissance portraits. Unfortunately there seems to be very little documentation regarding the process and materials used in their production.

Many of the same shapes of beads such as bugle, early forms of faceted gemstones, rounds, cabochons, and gemstone chips, including evidence of early forms of gilting have been found in some extant pieces. These shapes are still utilized in beadwork. Today we have the luxury of a much grander selection of beads made from all forms of natural fibers to plastic. Today's beads are found packaged many different ways including bulk, in containers, on hanks, individual strands to being sold individually.

Threads and cords used in period were made from natural fibers, such as silk, wool, cotton, linen, leather, hemp and sinew. Today we have several synthetic choices including nymo, silamide, polyester cording, elastic cording and kevlar. Most are available at craft stores, fabric stores, and online. The varying threads and cords come in many sizes. You will notice from 000 through G. The closer to 000 you get the thinner the thread. Some sizing is done with numbers and the smaller the number, the thinner the thread. These threads and cords may also be found on various types of cards, spools, and cones. Wire may have also been used in period to help a necklace keep its shape. However I have not found any evidence to prove or disprove this idea.

Needles for beadwork also come in a variety of sizes and thickness' depending on your beading needs. Needles used specifically for beadwork come in sizes from #10, #12, and #13, #14, #15, #16 with #10 being the largest. However for beads with large holes, one may choose to use, a tapestry needle or a sharp. Twisted wire beading needles are sometimes called collapsible needles. Due to the eye being so large and easy to thread. Once beading starts the eye "collapses" around the thread. These thread come in four weights and can be used for everything from seed beads to beads larger than 8mm. The only potential drawback to this type of needle, is that they tend to bend rather easily and if forced through a small hole can curl like curled ribbon on presents at Christmas time.

For this class we will be using a nylon cording, plastic pearl beads, the kind one may find in a Big Value bag at a craft, sewing or dollar stores. Clear nail polish will be used to set the knots we make in the chain.


Step 1: Put 30-90 beads on the string. The number of beads will vary with what you want to do with your project.



Step 2: Count back 6 Beads and string through the 6th bead into a circle.



Step 3: Add two beads to the string.



Step 4: Count back three beads on the already strung strand, and then run your needle and string through this third bead….



Step 5: Pull taught until you see the links form.



Step 6: Repeat until you get the desired length of the modified daisy chain.



Try incorporating different sizes and shapes of beads.
This is an easy way to create one of a kind necklaces, bracelets, and trim to spruce up your garments.



Stuff I have made using the modified daisy chain:

Bracelets based on the necklace from Portrait of a Woman, by Bastiano Mainardi.


Instead of creating a chain make individual pieces like the pearls in a diamond shape on the sleeves of the gown in the portrait of Ginevra Bentivoglio, c. 1480, Ercole de' Roberti.


Detail of a necklace I made inspired by portrait of Margaret of Denmark, Queen of Scotland. By Van der Goes, 1476.


Bibliography:

The History of Beads, from 30,000 B.C. to the Present, By Louis Sherr Dubin Harry N Abrams Publisher C. 2004

The Art of Beadwork, Historic inspiration contemporary Design by Valerie Hector, Watson-Guptill Publications C. 2005

The Conservation of Tapestries and Embroideries, Proceedings and meetings at the Institute Royal Du Oatrimoine Artistique Brussels Belgum, The Getty Conservation Institute, Printed in Japan C. 1989

The Quest for Immortality, Treasures of Ancient Egypt, C 2002, and visual recollection of seeing this exhibit in Grand Rapids Michigan March of 2006

The Beader's Companion by Jean Durant & Jean Campbell, Interweave Press. C. 1998

Portraits may be found at Web Gallery of Art, http://www.wga.hu/index.html

For other Variations of The Daisy Chain stitch check, Gerdany Beadwork Ukrainian-Style, Assorted Beadwork Lessons #1 by Maria Rypan, Rypan Designs, C 2002. (Maria Rypan is a recognized expert in beadwork specializing in the Ukrainian style. Website rypandesigns.com. ) Maria is very accessible to any questions beaders may have about her techniques. I Highly Recommend visiting her site and investing in her books.

Quick & Easy Beaded Jewelry by Elizabeth Gourley and Ellen Talbot, Krause publications C.2002

History of Jewellery 1100-1870 by Joan Evans c. 1970 Printed in Great Britain



Last updated: 10/2/2006